Discussion:
Trolling motor = need fuse?
(too old to reply)
n0sPaM
2003-07-09 14:37:57 UTC
Permalink
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?

The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?

N.S.
basskisser
2003-07-09 18:28:05 UTC
Permalink
Post by n0sPaM
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?
The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?
N.S.
My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.
n0sPaM
2003-07-09 18:56:24 UTC
Permalink
Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary shit man.
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?
The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?
N.S.
My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.
Greg Moore
2003-07-09 19:28:42 UTC
Permalink
Most high drain items don't get fused, I expect many fires start there. I
had a car engine fire one time caused by a short in the battery to starter
cable, no damage to the battery even on that size, but it pretty well
vaporized a #0 gauge starter cable.

Can never go wrong adding a fuse on a boat. Try to find out how much it
draws under load first. A fuse about 15% higher then full load will probably
also blow if the motor gets stalled in weeds or rope, saving the motor too.

Greg Moore
Post by n0sPaM
Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary shit man.
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing
comes
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many
Amp
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
do I need?
The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?
N.S.
My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.
Kent Hunter-Duvar
2003-07-10 12:45:52 UTC
Permalink
I'd recommend you look for a suitable load circuit breaker, instead of a fuse.
Canadian Tire used to sell a 20A breaker that should do the job. I used them on
the batteries in a sailboat for the supply line(s) to the electrical panel. I
never had them "pop", but slept better knowing they were there. The big
advantage is no spare fuses (or lack of) to worry about. If it pops, turn off
the motor and the as long as the excess load/short is no longer there, the
breaker will reset itself.

Kent
Post by n0sPaM
Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary shit man.
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing
comes
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many
Amp
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
do I need?
The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?
N.S.
My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.
n0sPaM
2003-07-10 15:02:59 UTC
Permalink
Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it told me
clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't find any
information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't want
to spend time to do it....

N.S.
Post by Greg Moore
Most high drain items don't get fused, I expect many fires start there. I
had a car engine fire one time caused by a short in the battery to starter
cable, no damage to the battery even on that size, but it pretty well
vaporized a #0 gauge starter cable.
Can never go wrong adding a fuse on a boat. Try to find out how much it
draws under load first. A fuse about 15% higher then full load will
probably
Post by Greg Moore
also blow if the motor gets stalled in weeds or rope, saving the motor
too.
Post by Greg Moore
Greg Moore
Post by n0sPaM
Really... oh.. i think I have to buy a fuse ASAP and install it. That's
scary shit man.
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing
comes
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How
many
Post by Greg Moore
Post by n0sPaM
Amp
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
do I need?
The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to
the
Post by n0sPaM
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will
the
Post by n0sPaM
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?
N.S.
My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.
Doug Kanter
2003-07-10 19:21:20 UTC
Permalink
Post by n0sPaM
Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it told
me
Post by n0sPaM
clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't find any
information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't want
to spend time to do it....
N.S.
Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have its
wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where potentially
explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their
insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But, if
the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying next to
a life vest....

Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job for
under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a brand
new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less
time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat.
malcolm
2003-07-27 16:05:37 UTC
Permalink
prob silicone filled automotive IDC connector
Doug,
What is an "oil filled crimp" I've been around marine electrical systems
a
long time and never heard of these. Where canI find them?
Pierre
Post by Doug Kanter
Post by n0sPaM
Why is high drain don't get fused? I read the Mini Kota manual, it told
me
Post by n0sPaM
clearly to clamp the +ve and -ve to the battery, that's it. I can't
find
Post by Doug Kanter
any
Post by n0sPaM
information on fuse from the manual. If it doesn't need one, I don't
want
Post by Doug Kanter
Post by n0sPaM
to spend time to do it....
N.S.
Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have its
wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where
potentially
Post by Doug Kanter
explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their
insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But,
if
Post by Doug Kanter
the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying
next
to
Post by Doug Kanter
a life vest....
Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job
for
Post by Doug Kanter
under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a
brand
Post by Doug Kanter
new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less
time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat.
Buck Frobisher
2003-07-27 17:12:11 UTC
Permalink
Post by Doug Kanter
Post by Doug Kanter
Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have its
wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where
potentially
Post by Doug Kanter
explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their
insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But,
if
Post by Doug Kanter
the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying
next
Post by Doug Kanter
to
Post by Doug Kanter
a life vest....
Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job
for
Post by Doug Kanter
under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a
brand
Post by Doug Kanter
new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take less
time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat.
It just so happens that I bought a Minn Kota on sale at Canadian Tire today
(28 lb thrust, for a 14' bowrider) and the leads aren't long enough to go to
the battery. The cable on the motor ends in spade lugs, and the booklet
says to use 6 gauge wire for the extension.

What I was going to use was an old battery jumper cable that will give me
the length I need, and terminate it in a nice lug to go on the battery
terminal. On the motor's cable, short of cutting the spade lugs off, can
anyone think of a simple screw type connector so that I can disconnect it
when I want to?

Plus, any sites or names of Toronto-area stores that carry 12v marine
accessories would be handy.

Thanks for any advice!
--
"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs."

regards,

Frank Johansen
Aurora, Ontario
Buck Frobisher
2003-07-29 04:24:28 UTC
Permalink
Great ideas, Frank. That T connector would do what I want. What is the
name of it?
--
"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs."

Frank Johansen
Aurora, Ontario
Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big
enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well,
anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat
places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries
fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but
nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup,
not on a boat.
As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options,
one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors
to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared
that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another
boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the
plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs
(imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole
running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a
threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the
back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor,
as well as the lights.
Post by Buck Frobisher
Post by Doug Kanter
Post by Doug Kanter
Maybe the manufacturer figures that a motor like that will always have
its
Post by Doug Kanter
Post by Doug Kanter
wires visible, or, in other words, not enclosed in a bilge where
potentially
Post by Doug Kanter
explosive fumes will build up. So, if the wires burn through their
insulation for some unforeseen reason, it won't be a hazard. Maybe. But,
if
Post by Doug Kanter
the wires *did* burn for some reason, and they happened to be laying
next
Post by Doug Kanter
to
Post by Doug Kanter
a life vest....
Meanwhile, you could find an in-line fuse holder and probably do the job
for
Post by Doug Kanter
under $25, even if you went bonkers and bought oil-filled crimps and a
brand
Post by Doug Kanter
new crimp tool. Sounds like pretty cheap insurance to me. It'll take
less
Post by Doug Kanter
Post by Doug Kanter
time than filling out all the insurance papers for your fried boat.
It just so happens that I bought a Minn Kota on sale at Canadian Tire today
(28 lb thrust, for a 14' bowrider) and the leads aren't long enough to go to
the battery. The cable on the motor ends in spade lugs, and the booklet
says to use 6 gauge wire for the extension.
What I was going to use was an old battery jumper cable that will give me
the length I need, and terminate it in a nice lug to go on the battery
terminal. On the motor's cable, short of cutting the spade lugs off, can
anyone think of a simple screw type connector so that I can disconnect it
when I want to?
Plus, any sites or names of Toronto-area stores that carry 12v marine
accessories would be handy.
Thanks for any advice!
Peter Bennett
2003-07-31 04:28:51 UTC
Permalink
On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 00:24:28 -0400, "Buck Frobisher"
Post by Buck Frobisher
--
"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs."
Frank Johansen
Aurora, Ontario
Speaking of fuses, let me tell you I was not able to find something big
enough. I live in Windsor, so I always shop in the detroit area. Well,
anyway, I bought a 36 lb thrust minn kota, which draws 36 amps. Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places. None of the boat
places or the auto places (autozone, canadian tire, murrays) carries
fuses that high in amperage. Radio shack did carry some 60 amps, but
nothing those to be used with a bread board or a similar electric setup,
not on a boat.
Blue Sea Systems sells high-amperage fuses - up to 400 amps, or more.
Of course, they don't fit the 1/4" x 1-1/4" fuseholders....
Post by Buck Frobisher
As for the trolling motor connecting to the battery. Couple of options,
one time i cut the spade lugs off and used those inline crimp connectors
to hook it to the longer 6 gage wire to go to the battery, then smeared
that liquid electric tape all over my crimp connection. On another
boat, we setup a cheap "disconnect" box in the back of the boat, on the
plywood. At a boat place in Detroit I found cheap insulated studs
(imagine a T, where the horizontal bar is made of plastic with a hole
running through on each side for fasteners, and the center of the T, a
threaded rod, for your connections), mounted those to the plywood at the
back of the boat and used that to connect the battery, trolling motor,
as well as the lights.
sounds like a Blue Sea Systems "Power Post" (Although I wouldn't call
them "Cheap" - but you could always fabricate your own from threaded
rod and scrap plastic.)

See http://www.bluesea.com/index.htm
--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI
new newsgroup users info : http://vancouver-webpages.com/nnq
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca
Terry Spragg
2003-07-29 18:36:30 UTC
Permalink
I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.

If you absolutely must have a 32 amp fuse, just wire up a 20, a
10 and a 2 amp fuse all in parallel. It'll work like the hard to
find value and you can use a cheaper muktifuse fuse holder strip.
Use all the same types, ie fast blow. Voltage shouldn't matter,
12 volt rating or up is OK.

After it blows, you will want a spare set, or a jumper.

I tested a combination of a 10 and a 5 to win a 10 dollar bet, 35
years ago. None of the other techs in the section could believe
it. A current limited power supply sat there at 15 amps for half
an hour, and when overloaded, both fuses blew simultaneously
after about 5 minutes at somewhere around 17 or 18 amps.


Fuses get a little warm at full load.

Terry K
On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:43:03 -0400, Frank Ciuca
Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places.
Go to a car audio place. They'd be happy to hook you up with a 50-100
amp inline fuse...
-Dean
--
http://ripperd2.dhs.org
--
Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by
copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is
specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested
solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised
purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy
and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer
released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock -
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Ron Thornton
2003-07-29 18:53:20 UTC
Permalink
Fuses are not resistors. They are wire that melts at a certain
temperature, thus a certain amperage at standard ambient temperature.
In 40 years in electronics I have never seen a case where a fuse was
considered anything but a wire. If a fuse or breaker gets warm so will
the wire.

Ron
Ron Thornton
2003-07-29 19:08:57 UTC
Permalink
P.S. You don't fuse a 32 amp load with a 32 amp fuse, unless you like
replacing fuses frequently. You fuse at the battery to protect in case
of catostropic failure, such as the cables shorting out. That is why
auto fuse links at the battery are rated at hundreds of amps, so you can
pull a full load of say 50 amps and blow the fuse link if a cable short
tries to pull thousands of amps.

Ron
Dean
2003-07-29 22:49:14 UTC
Permalink
Post by Terry Spragg
I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.
The fuse is NOT NOT NOT for the trolling motor. The fuse is to save
the battery, and the boat. You have the fuse in case the power wire
chafes on the boat enough to rub through, thereby creating a short.
The fuse is for this reason.... That is why it usually is rated much
higher than the normal currents you expect to see, to reduce the
resistance to something that won't affect normal operation.

-Dean
--
http://ripperd2.dhs.org
Terry Spragg
2003-07-30 17:13:47 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dean
Post by Terry Spragg
I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.
The fuse is NOT NOT NOT for the trolling motor.
As I implied, see above.
Post by Dean
The fuse is to save
the battery, and the boat. You have the fuse in case the power wire
chafes on the boat enough to rub through, thereby creating a short.
The fuse is for this reason.... That is why it usually is rated much
higher than the normal currents you expect to see, to reduce the
resistance to something that won't affect normal operation.
So, pick at a loosely used term, see if I care.

The 'trolling motor fuse' should be at the battery end of the
circuit, if anywhere, and would naturally be to protect the wire,
a point I feel is not appreciated by you, or the original
positor, who mentioned something about catching weeds or the
bottom while asleep, and damaging the motor. The motor is
internally protected against fire, trust me. Batteries contain
internal fusible parts. No external fuse would ever be used to
protect a battery by any informed person.

So, if you are not leaving the troller and battery in the boat,
and / or you inspect the wires once in a while, and respect the
wires, and don't throw your ice skates on the wires, or hack off
fishes' heads using the hull and wire as an anvil, or pile rocks
on the wires, why would you need such wasteful overprotection?

Would you fuse every inch of wire? The wire will fail near where
the spade terminals or alligator clips are crimped on at the thin
metal part, anyway, unless you really tried to set up some
insurance scam. Insurance companies suck the life out of paranoid
cowards all the time. Why volunteer?

There comes a point where one might decide it is better not to
soak one's self with gasoline than it is to wear a 20 pound dry
chemical extinguisher, thermally operated, monitored by Brinks 24
/ 7, with a flack jacket under in case it gets hit by a
meteorite, no? One would be better off to pay the fire department
to follow you around.

It's like wearing a parachute while using stilts in a dirt mine,
silly and pointless.
--
Terry K - My email address is MY PROPERTY, and is protected by
copyright legislation. Permission to reproduce it is
specifically denied for mass mailing and unrequested
solicitations. Reproduction or conveyance for any unauthorised
purpose is THEFT and PLAGIARISM. Abuse is Invasion of privacy
and harassment. Abusers may be prosecuted. -This notice footer
released to public domain. Spamspoof salad by spamchock -
SofDevCo
***@hgskinviw.net
Dean
2003-07-30 23:03:30 UTC
Permalink
Post by Terry Spragg
Post by Dean
Post by Terry Spragg
I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.
The fuse is NOT NOT NOT for the trolling motor.
As I implied, see above.
Not really. You said the trolling motor doesn't need a fuse. You
also implied that no fuse should be in the line from battery to
trolling motor.
Post by Terry Spragg
Post by Dean
The fuse is to save
the battery, and the boat. You have the fuse in case the power wire
chafes on the boat enough to rub through, thereby creating a short.
The fuse is for this reason.... That is why it usually is rated much
higher than the normal currents you expect to see, to reduce the
resistance to something that won't affect normal operation.
So, pick at a loosely used term, see if I care.
The 'trolling motor fuse' should be at the battery end of the
circuit, if anywhere, and would naturally be to protect the wire,
a point I feel is not appreciated by you, or the original
positor,
I don't appreciate??? "You have the fuse in case the power wire
chafes on the boat....."
Post by Terry Spragg
who mentioned something about catching weeds or the
bottom while asleep, and damaging the motor. The motor is
internally protected against fire, trust me. Batteries contain
internal fusible parts. No external fuse would ever be used to
protect a battery by any informed person.
I have never seen a (automobile) battery with in internal fuse. And
i've had my few times of sparking wrenches, and melting fairly large
(12 gauge) wires. Plenty of 100+ ampere situations.
Post by Terry Spragg
So, if you are not leaving the troller and battery in the boat,
and / or you inspect the wires once in a while, and respect the
wires, and don't throw your ice skates on the wires, or hack off
fishes' heads using the hull and wire as an anvil, or pile rocks
on the wires, why would you need such wasteful overprotection?
It's cheap, and easy insurance. In the car audio world, i know of a
few people that have melted 8 gauge under their hood cause their wire
chafed around the firewall, and they didn't have a proper fuse.
Post by Terry Spragg
Would you fuse every inch of wire? The wire will fail near where
the spade terminals or alligator clips are crimped on at the thin
metal part, anyway, unless you really tried to set up some
insurance scam. Insurance companies suck the life out of paranoid
cowards all the time. Why volunteer?
There comes a point where one might decide it is better not to
soak one's self with gasoline than it is to wear a 20 pound dry
chemical extinguisher, thermally operated, monitored by Brinks 24
/ 7, with a flack jacket under in case it gets hit by a
meteorite, no? One would be better off to pay the fire department
to follow you around.
It's like wearing a parachute while using stilts in a dirt mine,
silly and pointless.
I think you went a little off the deep end on this one, lol.
--
http://ripperd2.dhs.org
noah
2003-07-30 01:34:12 UTC
Permalink
A resistor?
In other words the world could save a ton of coin but just putting a couple
of hundred fuses in various locations on their circuit boards in place of
carbon or wire wound resistors??
Come on Terry, if a fuse acts as a resistor it is either grossly under sized
(where of course it would blow) or the connections were made in a brutally
poor fashion.
When anything acts as a resistor, that is causes a voltage drop across it,
it produces heat, if the fuse is not properly installed, or the holder too
small for the amp rating, then that portion will get hot. If the fuse
itself got hot, it will blow, this is what it is intended to do. When it is
sized to run properly, it doesn't get hot, it just waits until there is a
gross overload in the system then fries..
Greg Moore
Sorry to disagree, Greg, but every component in an electrical circuit
causes resistance, wire included. A fuse is *absolutely* a resistor,
with a predetermined point of resistance, designed to "blow"
at a specified current flow. A fuse will "get warm" at currents
approaching it's rating.

noah
Post by Terry Spragg
I don't think you need a fuse for your trolling motor. It would
be essentially a resistor in series with your battery, and will
waste power. If you wind up rowing the last 100 yards or so to
get home, blame the fuse with confidence.
If you absolutely must have a 32 amp fuse, just wire up a 20, a
10 and a 2 amp fuse all in parallel. It'll work like the hard to
find value and you can use a cheaper muktifuse fuse holder strip.
Use all the same types, ie fast blow. Voltage shouldn't matter,
12 volt rating or up is OK.
After it blows, you will want a spare set, or a jumper.
I tested a combination of a 10 and a 5 to win a 10 dollar bet, 35
years ago. None of the other techs in the section could believe
it. A current limited power supply sat there at 15 amps for half
an hour, and when overloaded, both fuses blew simultaneously
after about 5 minutes at somewhere around 17 or 18 amps.
Fuses get a little warm at full load.
Terry K
On Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:43:03 -0400, Frank Ciuca
Well,
good luck trying to find a fuse holder that big, short of those
expensive circuit breakers you see at boat places.
Go to a car audio place. They'd be happy to hook you up with a 50-100
amp inline fuse...
-Dean
--
http://ripperd2.dhs.org
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Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
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Lloyd Sumpter
2003-07-11 13:54:44 UTC
Permalink
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?
The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?
N.S.
My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.
A 36-lb thrust Minn Kota draws over 30A at full load. Chances are, that's
what's blowing your fuse.

The large wires (4ga?) used can withstand about 100A or so (sorry, too
lazy to look it up...), so you don't need protection at 20. But I suppose
the motor itself, or the control cct, might short and catch fire.
Fortunately, the traces in the control cct would probably act as "fuses"
and melt before any real damage was done.

If you want protection, I'd say about a 50A fuse or cct breaker would do
the job.

Lloyd Sumpter, Protection and Control Design, BC Hydro.
Ron Thornton
2003-07-11 15:52:22 UTC
Permalink
The first line of defence for electrical wirings should be the
installation. Don't have wires that are permanent lying around lose and
unprotected that can get nicked, cut or worn in the normal operation of
the boat. I try to run power cables in plastic electrical conduit
=B9=82=B2=82=B3 where I can and wire tie out of harms way where I can't. =


In the case of a trolling motor that is installed in the open, the
cables should be lashed out of the way. They should not be laying on
the deck, for instance, where you could drop a portable steel gas tank
on them.

As someone pointed out, "most"=A0 devices will open up (but don't bet on
it) under the strain of the hundreds of amps a battery will deliver when
short circuited. If you have a need to fuse, and you certainly should
on a permanent installation, use an automotive fuse link (more reliable
than a mechanical breaker especially in a wet boat) at the battery.
They are rated around 100 to 300 amps and will blow if the cable is
shorted and will not blow from the normal load.

My opinion, worth what you paid for it.

Ron

Notes

1. Power cable in conduit has to be over rated, depending on the number
of conductors, because of reduced heat loss. Consult an electrician.

2. Cables are rated for max load at a max surrounding temperature
(usually 60=B0 or 90=B0 C). A cable rated for 100 amps will carry many
times that before it fails.

3. Marine cable is available with a SS braid for armoring. Its easier
to install than conduit. Don't remember what the standards say for
shipboard but I prefer National Electric Code rated conduit.
Joe
2003-07-11 16:32:09 UTC
Permalink
Post by Ron Thornton
If you have a need to fuse, and you certainly should
on a permanent installation, use an automotive fuse link (more reliable
than a mechanical breaker especially in a wet boat) at the battery.
Bingo.
basskisser
2003-07-15 11:36:10 UTC
Permalink
Post by Lloyd Sumpter
Post by basskisser
Post by n0sPaM
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?
The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?
N.S.
My particular foot controlled 36 lb thrust MinnKota did not have a
fuse inline when I bought it used. BUT, on advice from several people,
I added a 20 amp inline fuse. I'm glad I did. The cables are long,
going from back of boat to front, and I've blown the fuse twice in
three years. Better the fuse than a fire.
A 36-lb thrust Minn Kota draws over 30A at full load. Chances are, that's
what's blowing your fuse.
The large wires (4ga?) used can withstand about 100A or so (sorry, too
lazy to look it up...), so you don't need protection at 20. But I suppose
the motor itself, or the control cct, might short and catch fire.
Fortunately, the traces in the control cct would probably act as "fuses"
and melt before any real damage was done.
If you want protection, I'd say about a 50A fuse or cct breaker would do
the job.
Lloyd Sumpter, Protection and Control Design, BC Hydro.
wonder why the literature that came with the trolling motor specify a
20A fuse? I'll look into that.
Ron Thornton
2003-07-15 15:39:38 UTC
Permalink
Basskisser,

It might be protecting the electronic speed controller and not the total
load. Its hard to believe that the stall current of a trolling motor
wouldn't blow a 20 amp fuse.

Ron
noah
2003-07-10 23:42:20 UTC
Permalink
Post by n0sPaM
I have a Mini Kota trolling motor 30 thrust, not sure if that thing comes
with Fuse. Do I have to cut the +ve red cable and add a fuse? How many Amp
do I need?
The package comes with 2 terminals +ve and -ve rings which clamp to the
battery, so the manufacture doesn't assume people to add fuse? Will the
deep cycle battery blow up when overheat due to short circuit?
N.S.
Hmmm....I thought I posted a reply to this, but it's not there. Sorry
if this doubles-up.

If you are connecting your trolling motor directly to a battery with
the clamps that come with the trolling motor (as in a rowboat or other
boat where the trolling motor clamps to the transom), you do not
"need" a fuse. If you are using "built in" concealed boat wiring, you
*need* a fuse.

Having said that, a properly sized fuse is never a bad idea, and in
the event of a problem, could save your trolling motor or prevent a
fire. I have used "clamp on" motors for years without fusing. Now
that my toys cost more, and I am a little older and more careful, I
fuse them.

Happy boating.
noah

Courtesy of Lee Yeaton,
See the boats of rec.boats
www.TheBayGuide.com/rec.boats
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